Ana Pataleia Ortins, a first-generation descendant of Portuguese immigrants, pays tribute here to the "soul-comforting, understated peasant food" of her ancestors. With attention to the regional associations and origin stories of various dishes, she offers recipes that rely to a great extent on simple ingredients but manage to convey a distinct cuisine.

Gaspacho de Galveis uses cucumber, green peppers, and fresh herbs, but no tomatoes.  Galinha Estufada, or stewed chicken, can be made with rice or just as easily with potatoes. There are recipes for making several Portuguese sausages, as well as a sweet cake leavened with beer and a fluffy Pão de Ló, or "bread of the Lord," which may date from the Renaissance.

An attractive antidote to those books that have you running all over town for specialty ingredients.

Hardcover. Color photographs throughout.